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A walk through the medieval suburbs
This itinerary winds through some city “suburbs” or borgo, that in Florentine terms indicate the streets on the edge of the historical center.
They began to form in the year 1000, with the growing demographic development, and were built to correspond to the main communicating streets with settlements outside of the city walls.
Successively, the suburbs were included inside the wall circle that was slowly getting bigger.
The ones that are referred to in this itinerary, like Borgo San Santissimi Apostoli and Borgo San Iacopo, still conserve the characteristic medieval imprint that one notices with the presence of tower-houses and narrow and winding streets. The “new” part, that of the Lungarni (along the river) and the Ponti (bridges), presents itself smoother and certainly more spectacular from a panoramic aspect.
Walk through some of the most popular areas of the city like San Frediano and Santo Spirito along the picturesque avenues where the Florentine artisan still survives.
You can also stop in to a typical diner to savour the genuineness of the Tuscan cuisine.
Route info
Length of route: approx. 2.3 kilometers
Time needed: approx. 3 hours, not including museum visits or bar/restaurant breaks
Route
You will find yourself in one of the museum streets that presents a series of buildings, above all medieval, of rare quality.
At no. 8, the majestic Palazzo Acciaiuolo, at no.10 another Acciaiuoli house in 16th century style, at no. 12 the Altoviti house
, typical 14th century with arches, and at no.19 the grandiose Palazzo Borgherini, attributed to Baccio D’Agnolo.
When leaving the hotel, turn left towards the little Piazza del Limbo, named so because of the children who were buried here before being baptized 
. Here, the Romans set up one of the first thermal establishments because of the very nearby aqueduct; to remind us of this, an inscription in stone on the building facing the little square where in 1825 a certain Antonio Peppini constructed his “ bagni nelle Antiche Terme” (baths in the ancient thermals) 
.
It seems that a good part of the ruins of the aqueduct were used later to construct the Church of the S.S. Apostoli 
, in pure Roman Florentine style where, on the faade, a medieval tombstone falsely states that the sacred construction was founded in 805 by Carlo Magno, in the presence of the paladins Orlando and Oliver.
In reality, the small Roman style temple was constructed at the end of the 11th century. Internally, the first chapel on the left conserves a silver and golden copper brazier that on Easter morning is brought to the Duomo with shavings of flints, originating from the Holy Land in the times of the Crusades, which serve to light the small dove during the ceremony of the Scoppio del Carro (exploding of the wagon).
Leaving the little piazza, passing under the arch of Palazzo Altoviti, you will be led onto Lungarno Acciaiuol named so after the powerful family who, in the 12th century, were merchants of steel in the city of Brescia and who later, with the Barbaric invasions, settled in Florence. Later, they became wealthier still thanks to the commerce of textiles and spices and in the 1600’s, purchased a large palace on the Arno River, successively building the splendid complex of Certosa del Galluzzo, south of Florence.
Turn to your left now and go towards Ponte Vecchio 
. The name “Vecchio” (old) reminds us the first Florentine bridge. It was destroyed by a flood in 1333 and reconstructed in 1345 with three arches. Butcher shops, fish vendors, and delicatessens were once found on the bridge.The area was evil smelling and degraded and that is why in 1593, the Grand Duke Ferdinand I, substituted these shops with goldsmiths instead.
In 1564, in only 5 short months, the Vasari Corridor 
was created above the bridge by the architect Giorgio Vasari.
It was the Grand Duke Cosimo I of the Medici’s who wanted the corridor constructed as an above ground means of passage to unite Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti, his new residence, passing through the Uffizi Gallery where his offices were found.
The job was commissioned for the occasion of the marriage of the Grand Dukes son, Francesco, to Giovanna of Austria.
Cross over the bridge and turn right to another borgo set parallel along the Arno; Borgo S. Iacopo.
The “medieval artery” of Florence, that more than sustained damages from the mines, sparing Ponte when the German command blew up only the streets leading to it and not the bridge itself.
Along this road you can notice the remains of some tower houses like that of the Rossi’s where a tub with a statue of Bacco, attributed to Giambologna, now stands.
Continuing to no.54 we find the tower of the Barbadori 
, and at no.22 a second tower of the Barbadori 
, while on the opposite side at no. 9, covered in good part by an ivy plant, the Tower of Ramagliati 
.
But the most beautiful tower is that of Marsili at no.17; on the main door you will notice a pair of bas-reliefs representing the Annunciation.
Arrive now at the Church of San Iacopo on the Arno, 
erected in the 12th century, called so seeing that the river touches it’s apses. The church has a splendid white and green marble colonnade (XII –XIII century). Inside we see six eighteenth century paintings from the Florentine school and a fifteenth century wooden crucifix.
Pass the Frescobaldo Palace at no’s. 1,2 and 3, where Carlo di Valos once lived, and after the crossroads with via dello Sprone, where the splendid Buontalenti fountain 
from the second half of the 1600’s sits, you will arrive in Piazza de’ Frescobaldi 
. The powerful family of international bankers, and lords of the Santo Spirito quarters, interrupted the isolation of the area, where they owned numerous properties, and had a new bridge built on the Arno, the Ponte Santa Trinita 
, with their own money; the third bridge after Ponte Vecchio and Ponte Carraia.
From Piazza de’ Frescobaldi go towards your left to via Maggio, (maggio meaning major) called so because it was the most beautiful, longest and spacious street, where the noble families of Florence had their palaces built. Today it is the street of antiques.
Follow along it to the left, and you will pass in front of the sumptuously decorated grotesque graffito palace of the noble Venetian woman Bianca Cappello 
who Francesco de’ Medici was infatuated with. They both died mysteriously within two hours of each other. Getting on to the first street to your right, via Michelozzi, named after the family who owned the Palazzo here 
, a palace you will notice for its characteristic arches laid on twelve stone mantelpieces.
You have arrived to Piazza Santo Spirito where, around the mid 13th century, the followers of Saint Agostino had a small church built and dedicated to the Holy Spirit, later enlarged, up to the point of arriving at a completely new construction designed by Brunelleschi, and finished at the end of the 1400’s.
The Church of Santo Spirito 
, whose internals reproduce the fundamental motifs of the Basilica of San Lorenzo, has become more beautiful over the years, with priceless works of art which has made it a real museum. To the left of the church at no.29, you will find the entrance to the Cenacle of the Santo Spirito, frescoed by Orcagna.
Numerous edifices of remarkable architectural value contribute to the beauty of the piazza among which include Palazzo Guadagni, with its beautiful open arcade 
, la Fontana a due tazze con la vasca ottagonale (the Fountain with two cups and octagonal basin) 
, and the Statue of Cosimo Ridolfi.
Now get on to via Sant’Agostino, cross over via de’ Serragli and proceed straight on to via Santa Monaca, and you will be led into Piazza del Carmine.
In 1268, the Carmelites constructed a monastical complex here. A fire, in 1771, miraculously spared the two chapels on both sides; the Corsini Chapel, masterpiece in marble from Florentine baroque, and the Brancacci Chapel, where, between 1425 and 1427, Masaccio and Masolino created a cycle of frescoes that changed the history of European painting with new prospective and naturalistic principles. From the piazza go towards Borgo S. Frediano.
The most popular area and at one time peripheral to the quarters where artisans and antique shops alternated.
Follow along it for a way until you turn right into Piazza del Castello where the Church of San Frediano in Castello dominates , initiated by the Cistercian monks in the 1300’s and terminated in the 1600’s, as you can see by the different overlaying styles. Now you find yourself on Lungarno Soderini, cross over Ponte Vespucci, and turn right on to Lungarno Vespucci, until you reach Piazza Ognisanti where you will find the Church of the same name (church of all saints) 
built in 1294 by the Umiliati monks.
The order of the Benedictine monks built a large work center for wool around the convent which gave the area a remarkable boost in economic development.
The church was built more times and the faade, rare example of Baroque in Florence, was completely restructured in the 1600’s by architect Nigetti who preserved the lovely Coronation of the Virgin and Saints, most likely done by Giovanni della Robbia, above the main door.
Inside the church you can visit the beautiful Cenacle of Domenico Ghirlandaio as well as the tombs of illustrious personages like Amerigo Vespucci and Donatello.
Go to your left to Borgo Ognissanti until you arrive to Piazza Goldoni, and go towards Ponte alla Carraia but before you get to the bridge go to the left on Lungarno Corsini.
The Ponte alla Carraia 
was the second bridge after Ponte Vecchio (old bridge) and it is for this reason that it was originally called Ponte Nuovo (new bridge) and then later “alla Carraia” (Carraia meaning carriage) because of the carriages that went back and forth with the processed wool. This bridge too, was ruined during the flood of 1269; it was later reconstructed but later it collapsed again from the weight of the crowd of people that took part in the popular festival of Calendimaggio.
The bridge was destroyed and reconstructed again another three times due to another two
floods and German mines in 1944 and it was redone permanently in 1951. Walking down Lungarno Corsini you can’t help but notice the massive Palazzo Corsini 
whose late Baroque style can be seen in different elements like the foreparts, the central terrace, the arched elliptical windows, the attics with a balustrade decorated with vases and statues, and often copied, above all, in suburban edifices.
You are nearing Ponte Santa Trinita
considered “the most aristocratic bridge” in Florence. In fact, for many years it was used for processions and manifestations.
At each corner of the bridge sits a statue of the four seasons.
This bridge too, was destroyed more than once by flooding of the Arno River and reconstructed again, and after it was bombed by the Germans, during WW II, it was re-done still again, in 1957, with the same elegant arch design which originally characterized it. You have now arrived at the corner of Via Tornabuoni, turn left and you will arrive in Piazza Santa Trinita dominated by the Church of Santa Trinita 
. In this piazza Cosimo I de’Medici had the Colonna della Giustizia (Column of Justice) 
, made of precious oriental granite, erected in 1565 to celebrate the victory of Montemurlo. Gift by Pope Pio IV, originating from the Thermals of Carcalla and taking five years to be transported to Rome by sea and then across the Arno River. The antique Church of Santa Trinita was found outside of the city walls of Florence and was one of the first examples of Florentine Gothic. Restored, and later enlarged, today it presents a Baroque faade. Inside you can admire remarkable frescoes in the Sassetti Chaple by Ghirlandaio representing the Adorazone dei Magi (Adoration of the Three Kings).
Among the palaces around the piazza, the significant Palazzo Spini-Feroni 
whose construction dates back to the 13th century. Around 1300 the edifice arrived up to the Arno River and it was used for defensive purposes as you can see from the form similar to that of a fort. Later, after construction was done along the lungarni, a part of the palace was destroyed. Today the building is property of the Ferragamo family and is the prestigious seat of the atelier stylist and Museum of
Shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo.
From Piazza Santa Trinita go in the direction of Borgo S.S. Apostili and then towards your hotel.
On the route
Church of S.S Apostles /Church of Santo Spirito
Open Monday, Tuesday and Saturday from 9 am to 12 midday
Closed on all other days including Christmas, New Year’s Day and May 1st.
Cenacle of Santo Spirito
Open on Saturdays from 9am to 5 pm.
Corsini Chapel/ Brancacci Chapel
Open from Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm.
On Sundays from 1 pm to 5 pm
Closed on Tuesdays, Christmas, New Year’s Day, Easter, May 1st and August 15th and 16th.
Church of Ognisanti
Cenacle of Domenico Ghirandaio
Open from Monday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and from 4 pm to 5:30 pm
Sundays and holidays from 3 pm to 5:30 pm
Closed on Wednesdays.
Palazzo Corsini
Church of Santa Trinita
From Monday to Sunday from 7 am to 12 midday and from 4 pm to 7 pm.
Ferragamo Museum
From Monday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm
Closed on Tuesdays.
Historical Businesses
Cantica Antica Capponi
borgo S. Frediano,26/r
Trattoria Cammillo
borgo S. Iacopo 57/r
Paolo Pagliai Silver
borgo S. Iacopo,41/r
Bongini Antiques
borgo S. Iacopo 70/r
Bini, Hat shop
piazza S. Spirito, 5/r
Marchiani Frames
via s Spirito, 16/r
Munstermann Pharmacy
piazza Goldoni, 2/r
Gallery Masini - piazza Goldoni, 6/r
